CAPACIOUS fashion

Fashion Discovery

Month: October, 2012

Paris Street Style Wars

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Comme des Garçons and Balenciaga reigned supreme over the streets of Paris during fashion week this October. Every Taste Maker and It Girl was seen wearing the over-the-top silhouettes from each designers respective fall collection. The impossible to miss felted wool coats by Rei Kawakubo were seen everywhere and on everyone. The vibrant colours and bold floral prints alone were eye catching enough, however it was the almost alien, shell like shapes and architectural construction that made them stand out from everything around them, becoming a favorite of every street style photographer. Nearly matching the bold offerings from Comme des Garçons were the spectacular over sized Balenciaga sweaters. Made from stiff fabrics able to hold their form, the sweaters were seen in many different variations, 3/4 sleeve, cropped length, full sleeved, etc. The one common thread was the blouson silhouette, reminiscent of a bubble, created by the fabric and construction of the garment. Despite the spacey silhouette the sweaters maintained a soft feel and are surprisingly feminine and very sexy. The science fiction inspired silk screen prints are the icing on the cake for one of the most popular items of the season. It will be interesting to see if there is any trickle down effect as these futuristic concepts and silhouettes move beyond the fashion elite and are eventually accepted by a broader segment of the public.

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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2013 RTW

Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: ‘I don’t bother you- you don’t bother me’.

– Yohji Yamamoto

Christian Dior Spring 2013 RTW

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After his stunning premier at the July Couture shows, Raf Simons backed up his vision for a new, more modern Dior,  drawing inspiration once again from the early days of the House and then adding his personal touch to create yet another outstanding collection. Opening with a selection of black tailoring, a mirror of his Couture collection, providing modern variations of the iconic Bar silhouette. Short, iridescent dresses worn over perfectly cut wool shorts were shown next, and bookended by more tailoring, this time in grey with exquisite detailing; asymmetrical pleating on coat dresses and metallic paneling clearly showed Simon’s gift for restraint. A-line dresses, cage silhouettes, stripes, and plenty of colour, including what must soon become know as Raf Simons pink, paraded down the runway one after another. Closing the show were beautifully simple ball gowns consisting of fitted black cashmere tops and voluminous floral print skirts covered by an iridescent fabric bringing the dresses to life. Simons has managed what was seemingly impossible, stamping his personality on Dior while maintaining the core values of the storied fashion House. The pairing could not be any more perfect.

Andrew Gn Spring 2013 RTW

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Givenchy Spring 2013 RTW

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Can this be called minimalism? Perhaps, but only in comparison to Riccardo Tisci’s work over the past several seasons would the term be apt. Along with this new minimalism there was a softer feel to the collection. The use of lighter fabrics, plenty of white and powder blue mixed amongst the ever present black, and simplified ruffles providing that final touch of femininity. However, not everything was new at Tisci’s Givenchy. His signature religious undertones appeared in bertha collars echoing a nun’s wimple, banded necklines and gold chokers resembling clerical collars, and beautifully executed split skirts worn over trousers, bringing to mind church vestments. Although the collection was missing much of the dark romanticism usually seen at Givenchy, the eroticism was still present, only this time done with much more restraint, almost as if he is trying to hide it.  Might this be the beginning of a new, lighter direction for Tisci’s Givenchy,  or just a brief respite before sliding back into his romantically gothic darkness?